Jolene Prins

Roughing it

8th November 2023

Whether you’re going luxury or low-budget, travelling through India can be frustrating in terms of comfort, options, speed, convenience and often hygiene.

For a start, approximately one out of every three or four people in India are multi-dimensionally poor, which means that the overall standard of living is lower than what the average European is used to. Now, Europe is a relatively a large continent, and economic well-being varies from country to country, but one finds that even most European youth hostels — perhaps the Western standard for “roughing it” — are basic but reasonably comfortable and generally clean.

You must summon angelic patience

With all this in mind, I booked the most luxurious hotel, the Taragarh Palace, in this peaceful village Tashi Jong, at the foot of the Himalayas. Still very reasonably prices, after all it’s not a hotel in the Capital of India, the pictures on the website looked promising. And while the exterior of the Taragarh Palace is actually impressive, inside it is quite dilapidated and old in a way that you can both see and feel — a low-budget experience for a not so low-budget price.

In addition to curtains so tattered, that I thought they would fall apart if I touched them, a red-velvet-upholstered chair of which the seat was damp, a wardrobe with doors that didn’t open, and a bedside table with a drawer full of cobwebs, it seems that the reasonable expectation that the hot water tap would give hot water wasn’t such a reasonable expectation at all.

After the third day of cold water, I ended up going frustratedly to reception in my pyjamas (since the phone in my room didn’t work) to ask for a bucket and cup, that I then, with angelic patience, filled with hot water using the smallest kettle in the world (which, thank God, did work) in order to take a warm-water bath “Indian style”, sitting on a plastic stool with hot water, soap up, and rinse for a quick clean.

I have to admit, showering this way is not even that bad. I felt equally clean afterwards and it saves a lot of water compared to the much-appreciated water-wasting rainforest shower at home and in a luxury hotel.

Spend a little more to get a lot more

Spending just a few euros more for a room can make a huge difference. Literally. For another €10 or €20, you can land yourself in opulence and luxury, which I found out by accident: I wanted to stay an extra night, but the low-budget rooms were fully booked, so I had to book a more expensive room.

The difference was two thousand rupees, which works out to €22 ($24). For that little bit extra, I got a room that was three times the size with beautiful, seemingly clean curtains, a fireplace with two clean, fairly new lounge chairs in front of it, and a desk with a chair (dry, fortunately). The shiny, black, marble floor with gold flecks and even the bathroom radiated five-star quality. And I got a hot shower.

The same happened in the Arya Niwas hotel in Jaipur. My daughter and I both booked the “cheaper” room (around €28 [$30]), but due to an error on the hotel’s part, she was lucky enough to be upgraded to a €15-more expensive room where she enjoyed a good mattress, a clean, spacious bathroom and air conditioning. I, on the other hand, got what I booked, and I slept in a third-storey room at the back of the building with a ceiling fan blackened by dust, lights that didn’t work and a shower room no bigger than a square metre, including the toilet. Thank God we both had access to warm water.

But, the hotel staff was the friendliest, the food was cheap (not outstanding — just good enough) and the garden, where you could spend all day and evening, was amazingly cosy. The staff did their best to give the guest a true Rajasthani experience through their all colourful and highly stylised hand-painted furniture; during dinner, there was a one-man show on a Sarangi, a typical Rajasthani instrument reminiscent of a homemade guitar; and the gift shop didn’t sell just cheap tourist trinkets but good and proper souvenirs: local hand-painted tableware, handmade jewellery, hand-woven scarves, etc.

In Europe, paying €20 more or less might not make much of a difference — seeing more bang for your buck probably starts somewhere between €60-€100, but in India, a little bit extra makes such a difference that is almost comparable to the difference between a cheap European hostel with bunkbeds and a 5-star hotel.

Beauty in the eye of the traveller

Of course, there are 5-star hotels to be found in India: The Leela, The Hyatt, The Westin, to name just a few. But these hotels seem to go out of their way to erase local colour and flavour, or at least avoid it: the interiors are in a neutral and consistent style seen all over the world; menus are designed not to celebrate local cuisine but to appeal to basic, international taste. Staying in these hotels, one often feels like one could be anywhere in the world. But taking shelter in one of these luxury oasis, one misses out on the “essence of life” in India.

Budget-friendly hotels, although you better not go for the cheapest for all the reasons described above, because it could always be worse and we don’t need to overdo it, give you the feeling of living the life of a local, many of whom do not have access to hot water every day. In hotels, the menu in their restaurant often offers only their local dishes, and it’s worth trying! The staff appreciate that you are visiting their town, so the service is exceptional and even heartwarming: they do their very best to make your stay as pleasant as it can be, not because it’s their duty, but because they really want to. And if you spend in that same hotel just a little bit more, most of the time you’ll have access to hot water :).

About the author
Jolene has always had a strong connection to writing. While her professional work includes content for annual reports, websites, internal magazines, and company films, it’s the more personal, reflective writing that resonates most with her. She writes about what she observes, questions, and learns in everyday life. As Managing Director of a leadership communication agency THEY, Jolene divides her time between the Netherlands and India. Living and working in Delhi gives her the rare opportunity to experience local life up close—an experience that continues to shape both her perspective and her writing. Her blog offers reflections born from cultural friction as well as connection. She doesn’t write to explain, but to explore—and often gives voice to things others may have felt but not yet found the words for.

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